波乗り日記

American Wedding

早いものでもう８月．カリフォルニアはいっつもアホほど晴れてて，いつ夏が始まったんかわからん．ただ日の出は遅く，日の入は早くなって来てるのは確かで，海に入れる時間が短なってるのをよく感じる．

今日は学校終わりにトラッセルズへ．昨日ぐらいからウネリが入って来てて，サイズは頭程度やねんけど，昼頃に行ってしまったから風びゅんびゅんでどないにもならん．２時間で５本とかなりしょぼい波乗りやった．ただ，U.S Open of Surfingに出場してた小川直久が来てて，かなりクールに波乗りしてた．日本人らしい綺麗なフォームに，パワーを加えたサーフィンで，トラッセルズでも目立つ存在やった．さすが日本１のBig Waver．

海が終わってクラスメイトとAmerican Weddingという映画を見にいく．結婚をテーマにしたコメディ映画やねんけど，体を使ったボケが多いから英語が分からん俺でもだいぶ理解でき，単純に笑えた．ただ，映画で頻繁に出てきた下ネタ単語の知識がなかったのは辛い．下ネタ単語でつまる度に，変な方向に想像がいく自分が情けない．

Four months have already passed since I came here. The weather is so fine as ever in California that I can sense when summer has come. However, Daytime which is being short clearly make me have less time to surf.

I went Trestles after school today. The new SW swell has come and made the size of wave head and over, but I couldn't do anything because wind was so strong. I'm sorry that I got only five ridings for 2 hours. I saw Ogawa Naohisa, who had competed in the U.S. Open of Surfing, riding cool. His surfing was so beautiful and powerful that he stuck out at the Trestles as a Japanese top big waver.

From evening, I went to the theater to watch the movie American Wedding with my classmates. This movie is a kind of comedy of marriage and has a lot of gags with actions, which made me easy to understand it and laugh. I think I should have known more lavatorial words which were used in this movie to understand it. I feel quite wretched about that they made me crazy.