今日はHuntington Beachにクラスメイトのコロンビア人と行く事になっていた．彼はBody Boardを初めたばかりの初心者．今のプログラムが始まった6月終わりからずっと一緒に海に行こうと誘われてた．そしてやっと今日実現するはずやってんけど，集合場所のHuntington Beachで彼とおちあう事ができず，結局俺１人で波乗りする事になってしまった．波の方は腰腹．潮があげ過ぎでボヨボヨ．約2ヶ月ぶりのビーチブレイク，加えて久々にバックサイドの波に乗る．実は，俺がいつも通うTrestlesはレギュラー方向しかなくて，ここ何ヶ月かバックサイドを乗る事がなかった．そのため最初は戸惑うが，途中からはビーチブレイクにも慣れ波をかなり頂き，楽しませてもらった．でもやっぱTrestlesが1番やなとあらためて思う．そういや，Huntingtonで波乗りするのこっちに来て初めて海入った日以来．時間経つのは早いもんや．
I had planned to go surfing at Huntington Beach with a colombian classmate. He has started bodyboarding in a month, what is called a beginner. He had asked me to go to beach since our program started in June. The wish would have been incarnated today, but we couldn't meet at Huntington Beach and I had to surf alone. The wave was waist or stomach and the tide was making too much. I surfed in the beach break after an interval of 2 months. Additionaly, I got some back side waves after a long time because Trestles where I usually go to surf has only regular side waves. So, I was muddled at the first, but I could be used to the wave and had fun to surf. However, I thought that Trestles should be the best. By the way, it has already passed a long time since I surfed there at the first day to surf in U.S.
Posted by fun2wave at August 6, 2003 10:23 PM | トラックバック